The Killing Fields were not how I'd foreseen them in my overactive, possibly Tolkien-inspired imagination. The barren wasteland swirling with mist, mud pools popping and splattering crosses sticking out of the bloody earth was replaced by a pleasant green stretch of land dotted with trees and shrubs. The only thing that tells you this will be a sombre experience is the towering shrine in the centre, consisting of 17 levels, each one filled with human skulls.
The Khmer Rouge genocide was something I barely knew anything about, so I was really keen to learn the history. I'm so glad I did it, but it was beyond horrific. Three million people killed for nothing.
The Genocide Museum, set in a former high school that became a prison known as S-21, was just as harrowing. But I can't recommend them enough. Just to get a feel for what the Cambodian people went through, just forty years ago. And it explains why there's such a big gap in the ages of people you see on the street.
You can do both within three or four hours, and a tuk-tuk driver will take you to both and back to your hostel for around US$20.
Then, with our hearts in our socks, I said goodbye to Laura and Nat after an amazing month. We saw so many unforgettable things, and I'm so glad they got to see a bit of my bizarre reality travelling the world. Travelling alone has its perks, and I still believe is the best way to see the world, but it was lovely to have two of my best friends with me. What a month.