Friday 26 December 2014

My Video in an Australian Advert

Just a bit of shameless bragging right now, but a few months ago I was approached by an Australian production company who had seen one of my videos I took in Japan years ago and uploaded to YouTube. They wanted to use a snippet in an advert, and they paid for me the use of it!

Here's the original video:


And the advert it was used in: (You may need to log in to view it because it involves alcohol)


Applying for Vietnam Visa in Bangkok

I thought I'd dedicate a whole post to this because it's something I had a lot of questions about when I was researching how it all works. So hopefully I can be of some help if you're looking to do the same thing. The following information is correct as of December 2014.

There are a plethora of websites offering Vietnam visas through online applications, and then you get stamped in on arrival at an international airport. However, the official Vietnam Embassy website says that these aren't legit and you need to apply in person at an embassy. I've heard stories of people doing it online and being allowed into the country, but I didn't want to risk it. The same with doing it through a travel agent on Khao San Road - it's safer and cheaper to do it yourself.

When I got to the embassy in Bangkok, I did see a sign that said that you can now apply at the official website. This is obviously very good news, and makes the process a lot easier.

However, if you still apply in person at the embassy like I did then this is how it went:

The Vietnam Embassy in Bangkok is on Wireless Road, near Lumphini Park (map in Thai here). The closest BTS (overground train) is Phloen Chit, or Lumphini station on the MRT (metro) is a bit further but still walkable distance.

The opening hours seem to vary depending on how they feel (as with much in Southeast Asia), but 8.30am-11.30am, and then 1.30pm-4.30pm seems to be about right.

I arrived at 9.45am and filled in one of the paper forms they provide. They don't have pens though, so BYO. They also provide glue for you to attach one passport photo to your application. If you don't have one, there's a photo shop near Phloen Chit BTS station that is very well equipped to do them for you. Just ask for a Vietnam visa photo and they know what size is needed. It costs 150 baht for four photos, although I only needed one.

The shop is called Closeup Photoshop, and when you exit Phloen Chit station take Exit 2, make a U-turn at the foot of the stairs, and it's on the right near Mahatun Plaza. You need to turn onto a small road to the right off the main road and then it's on your right hand side. Literally less than a minute's walk from the BTS station.

At the embassy, I asked for a same-day visa, and the man told me that it was too late in the day to do same-day (this was at 10am, and I'd read that they do them until 10.30am). I kind of got the feeling that they can do it at that time, he just wasn't going to cooperate.

Thankfully next-day collection seemed fine. Maybe ask for same-day and then they'll offer you next-day as a consolation prize. The bonus was that my collection time was 11.30am, so I still had time to catch a bus to Kanchanaburi in the afternoon afterwards.

It cost me 3000 baht for next-day. It's cheaper for 4-day collection, but I think it's still over 2000 baht. Not sure what they charge for same-day, if you're early/ lucky enough to get it.

I came back the following day at 11am, and was able to collect my visa late at about 11.50am. But it was all fine - I checked all the details of the dates and my passport number etc. So it's happening; I'm allowed into Vietnam!

Incidentally, you can also apply for the Vietnam visa in Phnom Penh or Vientiane. But I think Bangkok is just a popular place to do it, and they seem very well set up to process them relatively quickly.

If you have any questions, comment on this post and I'll try my best to help out!


'Tisn't the Season

It came, and it went. More importantly, I survived it.

Christmas was a big shadow hanging over this portion of my trip, because it's my favourite time of the year in the UK. I love being with all my family and the warmth that comes with all the Christmas cheer. I knew that this year was going to be very different, and it was making me feel quite homesick. Since I left Japan I've had pangs of nostalgia, and seeing all my friends wrapping presents and decorating their trees these past few weeks has actually been quite hard.

During my solo excursion from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai I did have a constant feeling of loneliness, which wasn't helped by the fact that the hostels I stayed in were all oddly quiet (I think all the backpackers have headed south for Christmas and New Year on the beach). But I made it back to Bangkok on Christmas Eve to see my Thai friend here.

During Christmas Day I made the most of the incredibly festive 33 degree humid heat and sunbathed in Lumphini Park, and then met my friend for dinner at a Japanese restaurant. She introduced me to a few of her friends, who all speak Japanese, so that was nice. We had a fun evening. She and I then went to see some illuminations at Central World in the city centre, which was rammed, but actually very pretty.

So I did have a nice day; if not a magical 'Christmas Day'.

Now I'm really quite glad that the whole Christmas thing is over, because it means I can focus on having an amazing final eight weeks travelling. The cherry on the cake is that one of my best friends arrives tomorrow to travel Asia with me for a month, and our friend will join us at the beginning of January. It's going to be a good month! And that should make up for a less-than-perfect end to December.

Bring it on, Thailand!

Tuesday 23 December 2014

War, Temples and Street Food

After my extended sojourn to Japan, followed by one night in Hong Kong (which involved a vast amount of Michelin-starred dim sum with a friend of mine, and all for £8 each), I hot-footed it over here to Thailand. That was the last flight, except for my flight home in February, that's included in the round-the-world ticket I bought from STA Travel last September. God that feels like forever ago.

I was welcomed by the manic buzz, death-defying traffic and fragrant smoke of Bangkok's food stall-lined, neon light-adorned streets. I haven't made my mind up about BKK yet. I can't decide if it's just the right amount of crazy, or if I never want to go back. It has a fantastic energy, so I'll leave it at that for now. 

I was only there for two nights. I just wanted to give myself a buffer to book onward travel to explore central Thailand and also to apply for my visa to Vietnam, which I'll cover in a separate post. 

As it happens, I didn't book my bus to my next destination, Kanchanaburi, because the buses are so frequent (three an hour during the day) I thought it would be fine to just turn up. And it was. Another reason is that Bangkok's bus stations are incredibly difficult to get to. There are three, and you need to know which one serves which destinations. Basically the Southern Bus Terminal goes to the south, and west for Kanchanaburi, Northern (Mo Chit) to the north, and Ekamai to the east. So check which one you want before setting off. And leave plenty of time. Even me showing a map on my phone to my taxi driver didn't help. 

Incidentally, the average Thai person does not speak English. They will speak words of it, which is fine for most situations, but they won't speak sentences. It's been a bit of a test for me, because the last time I had this much of a language barrier was in Brazil, and that was back in February. But it's all character building. That's what I tell myself anyway. 

Also, absolutely get a SIM card with unlimited data from the airport. There are a couple of counters in the Arrivals hall of BKK airport. I went for DTAC - their 30-day package with unlimited Internet and 100 baht of credit included. It's been worth its weight in gold (times a hundred) in terms of getting me around the country. It cost me about £20, but they also do one-, two-, and three-week packages. 

Anyway, back to me. 

I decided to cram the riverside town of Kanchanaburi, and the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai into seven nights, in order to be back in Bangkok for Christmas Day. I split them 2-2-3, and that's actually been fine. I don't mind being on the move a lot in short bursts, and I've got six nights in Bangkok when I get back tomorrow. 

I was really keen to go to Kanchanaburi because of its history in WWII. I studied Japanese at University, and in history modules I learnt about the Japanese expansion through Asia as it tried to build its empire while the West battled Germany and its allies. Kanchanaburi is home to the infamous bridge over the River Kwai, and is also a very convenient place to visit the Death Railway, which the Japanese Army forced prisoners of war to build to link Thailand and Burma for supplies. 

It was this connection and personal interest in the history that pushed me to go, but it's also a very pleasant town. There are raft houses floating on the river under thick jungles, backed by impressive mountainous terrain, and large Buddhist complexes dot the shoreline. 

I did a day tour on my one full day there. It was with Good Times, and was arranged through my guesthouse. I stayed at Canaan Guesthouse, which was very conveniently located near the bus station. It wasn't in the centre of town, but only being there for a short time I didn't mind as long as I could arrange a tour. It cost 1420THB including lunch and a guide. 

Our first stop was Erawan Waterfall, an impressive, and at times stunningly beautiful, seven-tiered collection of crystal clear blue pools fed by fast-flowing water spilling down the mountainside. I think this is what most people come to Kanchanaburi for, as it's famous for swimming and is featured on a lot of tourist posters. I climbed to the top, and it was worth it. The hike takes you past all the tiers, over rocks and through shallow streams, all the while under a canopy of tropical forest. At one point I saw two adult monkeys and a baby playing in the branches above me.



On the way down I stopped at the second tier and paddled my feet. I didn't go the whole hog and swim though. I had a free exfoliating massage from the fish, who came up in droves to nip at my toes. My feet haven't felt this smooth in years! 

From there we went to Hellfire Pass, one infamous part of the Death Railway, and walked along the original sleepers, still sitting in the ground.


There's also a free museum, which I found fascinating. But that may be my vested interest in the subject matter. 

The tour included a 30-minute ride along the Railway itself, which is still partly in use today. The views over the River Kwai were spectacular.


The day ended with the bridge itself. It was crammed full of tourists, but its iconic arches are still worth going to see. I was there at sunset, which made it even more atmospheric, and you can walk the length of it, following the train tracks.


The next day I got a bus back to Bangkok and got a taxi to the Northern Bus Terminal for buses to Ayutthaya. The taxi ride was a bit of nightmare, because the driver took me to the minivan departure point, but I'd read that minivans in Thailand are really uncomfortable and you often have to pay for an extra seat if you have large luggage. So I asked him to drop me at the closest metro station and I found my own way. The closest metro station to the Northern Bus Terminal is Chatuchak Park, and the closest BTS (overground train) station is Mo Chit, but it's still a 20-minute walk or a taxi ride from there. 

From Kanchanaburi to Ayutthaya you can also take a local bus to Suphanburi and then a minivan onwards, but I think it's easier to go back through Bangkok.  

I hadn't booked the bus to Ayutthaya, but it wasn't a problem. I had to wait 80 minutes for the next one, but I needed to get some food and sort myself out anyway. 

It took two hours to get to Ayutthaya, which is a beautiful city. The temples (wats) are everywhere. It's best to hire a bike and cycle it (it cost me 50THB for the day til 7pm).


The major temples are all gorgeous, but my favourite by far was Wat Chaiwattanaram. This one is a bit of a way out, over the river to the southwest of the Ayutthaya 'island'. But it's so worth it. It looks like a film set. I saved it for last and saw the sunset there. After dark it lights up magnificently.



I booked my bus up here to Sukhothai a day in advance, at the Transport Co. office which is on Naresuan Alley, much more convenient than the bus station, which is out of town on Asia Road. 

This trip took five and a half hours (including a rest stop for food halfway through) and not including an hour when our bus broke down in the middle of nowhere and we had to wait to be picked up by another bus that came along. There's one essential Southeast Asian experience under my belt! 

Now Sukhothai's historical park is beautiful, don't get me wrong, but apart from Wat Mahathat, with its oft-photographed pillars leading to a seated Buddha, the temples are all much of a muchness. I think I prefer Ayutthaya.


But I also think I prefer ruins over the pristine working temples of Bangkok, with their gaudy golds and reds, and sometimes with flashing LED lights that come on after sunset. There's much more atmosphere in the ruins of the old cities. The working ones feel like Mickey and Minnie will be coming out to sign autographs any second.

I did have a nice day exploring Sukhothai's old temples amid the lotus ponds yesterday. I hired a bike for the day, and also bumped into an American couple I met on the bus from Ayutthaya. We hired a tuk tuk for two hours (100THB per person) and went to see some of the more out of the way sights. 

Today I had a very chilled day. Instead of going to the historical park again (I'm a bit templed out for now) I had a lie-in, wandered round New Sukhothai and had my first Thai massage. It cost 200THB for an hour, and I felt glorious afterwards. Now I'm starting to ache a bit, and I have a feeling I'm going to be more than a bit bruised tomorrow. 

I booked my bus back to Bangkok online through Thai Ticket Major, collecting it at the bus station in BKK before I left. It seems to have all been fine. One word of warning though, the time printed on my ticket was the time the bus starts its route, so if your stop isn't the starting point, check with the ticket office in the bus station what time it's due to leave your stop. 

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve, and I'm spending it on a seven-hour bus journey. And Christmas Day in Bangkok... 

Ho ho ho? 


Sunday 21 December 2014

My Second Home

Oh, I've been a terrible blogger! Not posting for several weeks and keeping all my news to myself!? That's not what I set out to do. But now things are calming down my end, I'm going to get back on top of things.

So I need to start at the beginning. A very good place to start. 

After four years away from it, I finally managed to go back to the love of my life - Japan. I lived in Tokyo twice, once on my gap year and again for my year abroad as part of Uni, for a total of a year and a half. As I turned 19 and 21 there, it's really where I became an adult. It's a huge part of who I am. 

Originally I said I wouldn't go back on this trip, because I wanted to spend my money on new places and new experiences. But I am so glad I changed my mind. I spent three weeks in Tokyo, and every day I met up with friends, some of whom I haven't seen for four years; went to all my old haunts; ate my body weight in amazing Japanese food time and time again; and went to karaoke about seven times. 

I've never had more friends living in Tokyo than right now, so I did a circle of staying with them. And just had the best time. 

It was an extended best time as well, because I was due to fly to the Philippines after two weeks, but due to Typhoon Hagupit I had an extended holiday. Also I lost £400 in flight fares, but I'm ignoring that. 

One of the nicest things, apart from arriving and being totally emotionally overwhelmed to finally be back, is that it was the height of the autumnal colours, or momiji


A couple of friends and I went out to Mt Takao, which was festooned in all manner of golds, reds and yellows. I'd never been in Japan for that season, so it was perfect timing. 



There were some new additions to a strong contender for my favourite city in the world, including the Sky Tree, Japan's tallest structure at over 600m; and a rooftop garden in Harajuku. It's attached to a Starbucks, obvz, but the views are stunning. You can see the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, the lights of Shibuya, look down at Harajuku crossing, and you can even watch the sun go down behind Mt Fuji. It's absolutely magical. With a Snow Maple Toffee Latte (Japanese Starbucks is insane) in a gloved hand, friends by my side, and Tokyo spread out in front of me, I never wanted to leave. 




But I did, and now I'm in sunny Thailand, seeing some incredible things. That, however, I will save for another post. 

Ciao for now.