Friday 26 December 2014

My Video in an Australian Advert

Just a bit of shameless bragging right now, but a few months ago I was approached by an Australian production company who had seen one of my videos I took in Japan years ago and uploaded to YouTube. They wanted to use a snippet in an advert, and they paid for me the use of it!

Here's the original video:


And the advert it was used in: (You may need to log in to view it because it involves alcohol)


Applying for Vietnam Visa in Bangkok

I thought I'd dedicate a whole post to this because it's something I had a lot of questions about when I was researching how it all works. So hopefully I can be of some help if you're looking to do the same thing. The following information is correct as of December 2014.

There are a plethora of websites offering Vietnam visas through online applications, and then you get stamped in on arrival at an international airport. However, the official Vietnam Embassy website says that these aren't legit and you need to apply in person at an embassy. I've heard stories of people doing it online and being allowed into the country, but I didn't want to risk it. The same with doing it through a travel agent on Khao San Road - it's safer and cheaper to do it yourself.

When I got to the embassy in Bangkok, I did see a sign that said that you can now apply at the official website. This is obviously very good news, and makes the process a lot easier.

However, if you still apply in person at the embassy like I did then this is how it went:

The Vietnam Embassy in Bangkok is on Wireless Road, near Lumphini Park (map in Thai here). The closest BTS (overground train) is Phloen Chit, or Lumphini station on the MRT (metro) is a bit further but still walkable distance.

The opening hours seem to vary depending on how they feel (as with much in Southeast Asia), but 8.30am-11.30am, and then 1.30pm-4.30pm seems to be about right.

I arrived at 9.45am and filled in one of the paper forms they provide. They don't have pens though, so BYO. They also provide glue for you to attach one passport photo to your application. If you don't have one, there's a photo shop near Phloen Chit BTS station that is very well equipped to do them for you. Just ask for a Vietnam visa photo and they know what size is needed. It costs 150 baht for four photos, although I only needed one.

The shop is called Closeup Photoshop, and when you exit Phloen Chit station take Exit 2, make a U-turn at the foot of the stairs, and it's on the right near Mahatun Plaza. You need to turn onto a small road to the right off the main road and then it's on your right hand side. Literally less than a minute's walk from the BTS station.

At the embassy, I asked for a same-day visa, and the man told me that it was too late in the day to do same-day (this was at 10am, and I'd read that they do them until 10.30am). I kind of got the feeling that they can do it at that time, he just wasn't going to cooperate.

Thankfully next-day collection seemed fine. Maybe ask for same-day and then they'll offer you next-day as a consolation prize. The bonus was that my collection time was 11.30am, so I still had time to catch a bus to Kanchanaburi in the afternoon afterwards.

It cost me 3000 baht for next-day. It's cheaper for 4-day collection, but I think it's still over 2000 baht. Not sure what they charge for same-day, if you're early/ lucky enough to get it.

I came back the following day at 11am, and was able to collect my visa late at about 11.50am. But it was all fine - I checked all the details of the dates and my passport number etc. So it's happening; I'm allowed into Vietnam!

Incidentally, you can also apply for the Vietnam visa in Phnom Penh or Vientiane. But I think Bangkok is just a popular place to do it, and they seem very well set up to process them relatively quickly.

If you have any questions, comment on this post and I'll try my best to help out!


'Tisn't the Season

It came, and it went. More importantly, I survived it.

Christmas was a big shadow hanging over this portion of my trip, because it's my favourite time of the year in the UK. I love being with all my family and the warmth that comes with all the Christmas cheer. I knew that this year was going to be very different, and it was making me feel quite homesick. Since I left Japan I've had pangs of nostalgia, and seeing all my friends wrapping presents and decorating their trees these past few weeks has actually been quite hard.

During my solo excursion from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi, Ayutthaya and Sukhothai I did have a constant feeling of loneliness, which wasn't helped by the fact that the hostels I stayed in were all oddly quiet (I think all the backpackers have headed south for Christmas and New Year on the beach). But I made it back to Bangkok on Christmas Eve to see my Thai friend here.

During Christmas Day I made the most of the incredibly festive 33 degree humid heat and sunbathed in Lumphini Park, and then met my friend for dinner at a Japanese restaurant. She introduced me to a few of her friends, who all speak Japanese, so that was nice. We had a fun evening. She and I then went to see some illuminations at Central World in the city centre, which was rammed, but actually very pretty.

So I did have a nice day; if not a magical 'Christmas Day'.

Now I'm really quite glad that the whole Christmas thing is over, because it means I can focus on having an amazing final eight weeks travelling. The cherry on the cake is that one of my best friends arrives tomorrow to travel Asia with me for a month, and our friend will join us at the beginning of January. It's going to be a good month! And that should make up for a less-than-perfect end to December.

Bring it on, Thailand!

Tuesday 23 December 2014

War, Temples and Street Food

After my extended sojourn to Japan, followed by one night in Hong Kong (which involved a vast amount of Michelin-starred dim sum with a friend of mine, and all for £8 each), I hot-footed it over here to Thailand. That was the last flight, except for my flight home in February, that's included in the round-the-world ticket I bought from STA Travel last September. God that feels like forever ago.

I was welcomed by the manic buzz, death-defying traffic and fragrant smoke of Bangkok's food stall-lined, neon light-adorned streets. I haven't made my mind up about BKK yet. I can't decide if it's just the right amount of crazy, or if I never want to go back. It has a fantastic energy, so I'll leave it at that for now. 

I was only there for two nights. I just wanted to give myself a buffer to book onward travel to explore central Thailand and also to apply for my visa to Vietnam, which I'll cover in a separate post. 

As it happens, I didn't book my bus to my next destination, Kanchanaburi, because the buses are so frequent (three an hour during the day) I thought it would be fine to just turn up. And it was. Another reason is that Bangkok's bus stations are incredibly difficult to get to. There are three, and you need to know which one serves which destinations. Basically the Southern Bus Terminal goes to the south, and west for Kanchanaburi, Northern (Mo Chit) to the north, and Ekamai to the east. So check which one you want before setting off. And leave plenty of time. Even me showing a map on my phone to my taxi driver didn't help. 

Incidentally, the average Thai person does not speak English. They will speak words of it, which is fine for most situations, but they won't speak sentences. It's been a bit of a test for me, because the last time I had this much of a language barrier was in Brazil, and that was back in February. But it's all character building. That's what I tell myself anyway. 

Also, absolutely get a SIM card with unlimited data from the airport. There are a couple of counters in the Arrivals hall of BKK airport. I went for DTAC - their 30-day package with unlimited Internet and 100 baht of credit included. It's been worth its weight in gold (times a hundred) in terms of getting me around the country. It cost me about £20, but they also do one-, two-, and three-week packages. 

Anyway, back to me. 

I decided to cram the riverside town of Kanchanaburi, and the ancient capitals of Ayutthaya and Sukhothai into seven nights, in order to be back in Bangkok for Christmas Day. I split them 2-2-3, and that's actually been fine. I don't mind being on the move a lot in short bursts, and I've got six nights in Bangkok when I get back tomorrow. 

I was really keen to go to Kanchanaburi because of its history in WWII. I studied Japanese at University, and in history modules I learnt about the Japanese expansion through Asia as it tried to build its empire while the West battled Germany and its allies. Kanchanaburi is home to the infamous bridge over the River Kwai, and is also a very convenient place to visit the Death Railway, which the Japanese Army forced prisoners of war to build to link Thailand and Burma for supplies. 

It was this connection and personal interest in the history that pushed me to go, but it's also a very pleasant town. There are raft houses floating on the river under thick jungles, backed by impressive mountainous terrain, and large Buddhist complexes dot the shoreline. 

I did a day tour on my one full day there. It was with Good Times, and was arranged through my guesthouse. I stayed at Canaan Guesthouse, which was very conveniently located near the bus station. It wasn't in the centre of town, but only being there for a short time I didn't mind as long as I could arrange a tour. It cost 1420THB including lunch and a guide. 

Our first stop was Erawan Waterfall, an impressive, and at times stunningly beautiful, seven-tiered collection of crystal clear blue pools fed by fast-flowing water spilling down the mountainside. I think this is what most people come to Kanchanaburi for, as it's famous for swimming and is featured on a lot of tourist posters. I climbed to the top, and it was worth it. The hike takes you past all the tiers, over rocks and through shallow streams, all the while under a canopy of tropical forest. At one point I saw two adult monkeys and a baby playing in the branches above me.



On the way down I stopped at the second tier and paddled my feet. I didn't go the whole hog and swim though. I had a free exfoliating massage from the fish, who came up in droves to nip at my toes. My feet haven't felt this smooth in years! 

From there we went to Hellfire Pass, one infamous part of the Death Railway, and walked along the original sleepers, still sitting in the ground.


There's also a free museum, which I found fascinating. But that may be my vested interest in the subject matter. 

The tour included a 30-minute ride along the Railway itself, which is still partly in use today. The views over the River Kwai were spectacular.


The day ended with the bridge itself. It was crammed full of tourists, but its iconic arches are still worth going to see. I was there at sunset, which made it even more atmospheric, and you can walk the length of it, following the train tracks.


The next day I got a bus back to Bangkok and got a taxi to the Northern Bus Terminal for buses to Ayutthaya. The taxi ride was a bit of nightmare, because the driver took me to the minivan departure point, but I'd read that minivans in Thailand are really uncomfortable and you often have to pay for an extra seat if you have large luggage. So I asked him to drop me at the closest metro station and I found my own way. The closest metro station to the Northern Bus Terminal is Chatuchak Park, and the closest BTS (overground train) station is Mo Chit, but it's still a 20-minute walk or a taxi ride from there. 

From Kanchanaburi to Ayutthaya you can also take a local bus to Suphanburi and then a minivan onwards, but I think it's easier to go back through Bangkok.  

I hadn't booked the bus to Ayutthaya, but it wasn't a problem. I had to wait 80 minutes for the next one, but I needed to get some food and sort myself out anyway. 

It took two hours to get to Ayutthaya, which is a beautiful city. The temples (wats) are everywhere. It's best to hire a bike and cycle it (it cost me 50THB for the day til 7pm).


The major temples are all gorgeous, but my favourite by far was Wat Chaiwattanaram. This one is a bit of a way out, over the river to the southwest of the Ayutthaya 'island'. But it's so worth it. It looks like a film set. I saved it for last and saw the sunset there. After dark it lights up magnificently.



I booked my bus up here to Sukhothai a day in advance, at the Transport Co. office which is on Naresuan Alley, much more convenient than the bus station, which is out of town on Asia Road. 

This trip took five and a half hours (including a rest stop for food halfway through) and not including an hour when our bus broke down in the middle of nowhere and we had to wait to be picked up by another bus that came along. There's one essential Southeast Asian experience under my belt! 

Now Sukhothai's historical park is beautiful, don't get me wrong, but apart from Wat Mahathat, with its oft-photographed pillars leading to a seated Buddha, the temples are all much of a muchness. I think I prefer Ayutthaya.


But I also think I prefer ruins over the pristine working temples of Bangkok, with their gaudy golds and reds, and sometimes with flashing LED lights that come on after sunset. There's much more atmosphere in the ruins of the old cities. The working ones feel like Mickey and Minnie will be coming out to sign autographs any second.

I did have a nice day exploring Sukhothai's old temples amid the lotus ponds yesterday. I hired a bike for the day, and also bumped into an American couple I met on the bus from Ayutthaya. We hired a tuk tuk for two hours (100THB per person) and went to see some of the more out of the way sights. 

Today I had a very chilled day. Instead of going to the historical park again (I'm a bit templed out for now) I had a lie-in, wandered round New Sukhothai and had my first Thai massage. It cost 200THB for an hour, and I felt glorious afterwards. Now I'm starting to ache a bit, and I have a feeling I'm going to be more than a bit bruised tomorrow. 

I booked my bus back to Bangkok online through Thai Ticket Major, collecting it at the bus station in BKK before I left. It seems to have all been fine. One word of warning though, the time printed on my ticket was the time the bus starts its route, so if your stop isn't the starting point, check with the ticket office in the bus station what time it's due to leave your stop. 

Tomorrow is Christmas Eve, and I'm spending it on a seven-hour bus journey. And Christmas Day in Bangkok... 

Ho ho ho? 


Sunday 21 December 2014

My Second Home

Oh, I've been a terrible blogger! Not posting for several weeks and keeping all my news to myself!? That's not what I set out to do. But now things are calming down my end, I'm going to get back on top of things.

So I need to start at the beginning. A very good place to start. 

After four years away from it, I finally managed to go back to the love of my life - Japan. I lived in Tokyo twice, once on my gap year and again for my year abroad as part of Uni, for a total of a year and a half. As I turned 19 and 21 there, it's really where I became an adult. It's a huge part of who I am. 

Originally I said I wouldn't go back on this trip, because I wanted to spend my money on new places and new experiences. But I am so glad I changed my mind. I spent three weeks in Tokyo, and every day I met up with friends, some of whom I haven't seen for four years; went to all my old haunts; ate my body weight in amazing Japanese food time and time again; and went to karaoke about seven times. 

I've never had more friends living in Tokyo than right now, so I did a circle of staying with them. And just had the best time. 

It was an extended best time as well, because I was due to fly to the Philippines after two weeks, but due to Typhoon Hagupit I had an extended holiday. Also I lost £400 in flight fares, but I'm ignoring that. 

One of the nicest things, apart from arriving and being totally emotionally overwhelmed to finally be back, is that it was the height of the autumnal colours, or momiji


A couple of friends and I went out to Mt Takao, which was festooned in all manner of golds, reds and yellows. I'd never been in Japan for that season, so it was perfect timing. 



There were some new additions to a strong contender for my favourite city in the world, including the Sky Tree, Japan's tallest structure at over 600m; and a rooftop garden in Harajuku. It's attached to a Starbucks, obvz, but the views are stunning. You can see the skyscrapers of Shinjuku, the lights of Shibuya, look down at Harajuku crossing, and you can even watch the sun go down behind Mt Fuji. It's absolutely magical. With a Snow Maple Toffee Latte (Japanese Starbucks is insane) in a gloved hand, friends by my side, and Tokyo spread out in front of me, I never wanted to leave. 




But I did, and now I'm in sunny Thailand, seeing some incredible things. That, however, I will save for another post. 

Ciao for now. 

Sunday 23 November 2014

Hong Kong

Hong Kong is still delivering. It's just an electrifying place to be. I could definitely live here.

The last few days I've spent watching the free laser show over Hong Kong Island (best watched from near the Avenue of Stars on Kowloon - it takes place every night at 8pm, lasts 14 minutes, and is completely free); going up to Victoria Peak to see the fantastic views over Hong Kong Island and Kowloon, and some of the surrounding islands; and generally eating as much dim sum as my stomach and wallet can handle.

And tomorrow a friend and I are going to Hong Kong Disneyland! I feel like a child, but I'm really excited about it. It's one step closer to me achieving my childhood dream of going to all the Disneylands in the world. Watch out California - you're the last one on my list after tomorrow. It's a ridiculous life goal, but if you don't honour promises you made to yourself when you were eight, what are you doing with your life?

After that - Japan! Dear lord, I don't think I can take this much excitement at once. I've realised I love Asia. I have a real affinity for it. So I guess it's a good thing that I'm spending the next three months here!

Here are some of my favourite shots of the last few days. 






Thursday 20 November 2014

Back to the Asia

I love Hong Kong! I've been here one day, and it's a fantastic city. I find that when I arrive in a new place I get a feel for whether it's somewhere I want to leave the next day, stay for a while, or I could live there. I think I could live in Hong Kong.

I love big cities, I love history and culture, I love Asia, and I love Cantonese food. What more could I need!?

It feels like taking a breath of fresh air after Australia, where I felt my travelling spirit stagnate slightly. Australia is just too similar in culture to the UK, and this year is about learning new things about the world. Hong Kong is a fascinating blend of old and new, Western and Eastern, and modernity and tradition. It's also a good stepping stone for me returning to Asia, as English is widely spoken and most signs are bilingual. Plus it's clean and it works very efficiently. If you're going to China, Hong Kong is a good place to test the water. I've been to Shanghai and Beijing, and that was a big shock at the time, particularly going from ultra-clean, ultra-polite Japan.

Now I say "returning to Asia" because I lived in Tokyo twice, as documented in my other blog, Memoirs of a Gaijin. I've been itching to come back to Asia and experience it again, and even more than that, to go back to Japan and see it after four years' being away. And that will finally happen on Tuesday! I absolutely can't wait.

But for now, Hong Kong is keeping me very happy. I took a trip on the cable car up to the Tian Tan Buddha, which is the world's largest seated bronze Buddha, and there was a very pretty monastery in the mountains as well.



The village you first reach was incredibly contrived, and one of the 'traditional' buildings was a Subway. But the surrounding peaks and the actual temples were beautiful. I was also asked to take photos with two strangers. I'd forgotten that happens! I need to get used to feeling like a celebrity again.

I then came back to Kowloon, where my hostel is, to have a wander through the streets and get lost in the city. I stumbled upon the pro-democracy protesters' camp in Mong Kok, and had a read of their signs and posters. I saw a lot of the students sleeping in tents under handwritten 'No photo' signs. I also saw that they're planning to occupy the British consulate tomorrow afternoon, due to the UK government's lack of response to China's defiance of the treaty both countries signed in 1997. No doubt I'll be reading about that on the BBC news app soon enough.

Now I have four more full days to keep exploring this city, with its British plug sockets, double-decker buses and metro stations with names like Prince Edward, but all the while with the vibrant colours and neon lights that accompany life in any wealthy Asian city. Tomorrow I'm meeting a friend who I went to primary school with, and then Hong Kong Island is my oyster.


Monday 17 November 2014

The Reef, and my Aussie End

My Australia bucket list came to an end two days ago, with a fantastic day snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef. 


Like so much I'm doing on this world trip, I've wanted to see the Reef since I was a child. And it didn't disappoint. I did a one-day tour with Calypso from Port Douglas, but I think that the vast majority of tour operators from Port Douglas and Cairns do much the same thing. 

As an aside, I can't recommend Port Douglas enough. It's small, but absolutely idyllic, and only an hour's drive north of soulless Cairns. Four Mile Beach is perfect. There isn't a lot of budget accommodation, but Parrotfish Lodge is right in the centre, and at AU$15/night, it's the cheapest hostel I've found in Australia. 

Calypso picked me up from the lodge and we set off. We were going to Agincourt Reef, which makes up part of the Outer Reef, so it took almost two hours to get there. There were complimentary drinks and biscuits, and the AU$200 price tag included morning and afternoon tea and lunch, as well as three dive/snorkel sites. 

I went snorkelling in Florida about ten years ago, but I hadn't done any since then. It took a while to get used to the plasticy taste of the snorkel in your mouth and not bring able to breathe through the nose, but once I was comfortable I loved the whole thing. I want to do it every day. 

I saw coral of every shape, size and colour, giant clams that close up when you approach, clown fish, Dory fish, big fish with huge staring eyes, and thousands of tiny fish that follow you around. I didn't see any sharks or turtles, but I also didn't see any jellyfish or saltwater crocodiles. So swings and roundabouts. 


I rented an underwater camera from my hostel for AU$50 so I swam my way around each site armed with that, and I got some surprisingly good shots. I definitely recommend hiring a camera if you don't have a Go-Pro. Go for one where you can keep the SD card afterwards. 



Calypso were very good. Friendly staff and good food. I'd go with them again, and recommend them to others doing what I did.

That day was definitely a highlight of Australia, and of my trip as a whole too. Speaking of my trip, as I write this I'm lying in the sun by the pool in a hostel in Cairns, getting ready to leave the country in the wee hours of tomorrow. 

It's the end of my five months Down Under, and it's been a time of much variety. From living with my aunt, uncle and cousin in suburban Melbourne, to having a busy social and work schedule while living in the centre of Melbourne's nightlife, to going back to solo travelling and seeing some incredible things, I'll never forget my time living here. 

But I have three months to the day before I return to the UK, and I have big plans for Asia. First stop: Hong Kong! 


Lightning and Uluru

A few days ago I ticked off my second Australian icon from my list - the controversial-among-travellers Uluru (Ayers Rock). 


Is it worth all the money and bother of going to the middle of nowhere to see a rock? My conclusion was: yes. It's much more impressive in person than in photos, and walking around its base to see the contours and caves, along with aboriginal drawings that are tens of thousands of years old was fascinating. It opened my eyes to the indigenous peoples' culture, which is something that you don't get in the big cities. It showed me a different side of Australia. 

Having said that, it's undeniably expensive and bothersome to visit. I flew in and out, and booked a tour with The Rock Tour to see Uluru at sunset and sunrise, and Kata Tjuta (pronounced Kah-tah Jew-tah). You can save money by taking the Greyhound bus from the coast, but with only two weeks to see Australia, I didn't want to spend a day sitting on a bus. 

My Uluru experience was somewhat unconventional. First I ended up having to do a one-night tour instead of the two-night that I booked with The Rock Tour. This was because I was the only person doing the itinerary on that particular day, so they had to move things around. 

Then on the first day, after a blisteringly hot base walk around Uluru in 42C heat, it started to cloud over, and we were inundated with a massive electrical storm during sunset. So I didn't get to see the rock changing colours as the sun goes down, but seeing fork lightning flash across Ayres Rock is something I never thought I'd see. 

We were meant to sleep in swags under the stars, but in the middle of the desert, where it doesn't rain for months on end, it poured all night. Thankfully there were pre-erected tents in the campsite that we could use. Unfortunately halfway through the night I woke up covered in ants and had to fight them out of my sleeping bag. Our 4am start that day turned out to be a blessing in disguise as it meant I could just escape the amassing hordes. 

We had breakfast outside and watched the sunrise behind Uluru. That was a gorgeous sight, and the rain stopped for us to see it. 


As soon as the sun was up the notorious Red Centre flies came out to play with our eyes, noses, ears, mouths... They're not fussy. 

We then did the Valley of the Winds walk at Kata Tjuta, and I have to say that while Uluru is the popular sibling, Kata Tjuta is the one who got the looks. Made of the same beautiful sandstone, it undulates and twists around itself in a much more interesting way than Uluru. The walk takes you through scrubland, desert woodland that seems to be lifted straight from Africa's savannah, through canyons and over steep passes between sheer red cliffs. 


The clouds were apparently celebrating our triumphant arrival at the top of the walk, because it started to rain quite heavily. Our guide was ecstatic - he'd never seen rain there. The best part of the weather was that the rainwater ran off the rocks in waterfalls. A very rare and captivating sight. 


Overall my experience was quite different to the average visit to Centralia, but I was blown away by the natural beauty of the area. I feel there are plenty of other things to keep you occupied in Australia, but for me it opened my eyes. Not to mention I got those picture-perfect photos! 


Wednesday 12 November 2014

A Desert Rose

I've decided I like deserts. Which is very odd, as I'm a city kid through and through. But there's something about the colours of deserts that makes me happy. The pure blue sky over a barren landscape littered with shrubs and the occasional tree. Deserts are beautiful.

Australia's Red Centre is quite different to Chile's Atacama, but they both have the vast expanses of nothingness and cloudless skies that I seem to love.

Although I pretty much baked in the 42C temperatures all through my day trip out to the McDonnell Ranges today, I love the dry heat. Give me this over humidity any day!

The tour I did was with Emu Run, and the guide was really good. We visited a lot of great sights, including chasms, waterholes, camel farms... All the essentials. Including a public toilet crawling with bugs and spiders. I spotted a redback on its web above the door, and that was me done. I waited for the next toilet stop.


I have a week left in Australia, after spending five months here. I was wishing away my time working in Melbourne to get back to travelling, and now I wonder if I might miss my life Down Under.

Damn that green grass.


Tuesday 11 November 2014

Arrival in Alice

I flew into Alice Springs this morning, with the clock jumping back an hour and a half (it's like an alternative universe between two realities). I wasn't sure what to expect. Old Spaghetti Western film set? Two shacks in a deserted valley? Bustling town with no hints that it's hidden away in the outback? 


It's actually just a normal village. Traversable in 20 minutes, it's made up of just a few main roads, but with supermarkets, KFC, McDonald's, Subway... Everything you need to survive in Australia. 

But boy is it hot. Like, seriously. The mercury hit 40C today, and is meant to stay this way for the whole time I'm here. The water in the bottom of the toilets is hot. Everything is hot! 

The sun is intense, but I love the dry heat. There's not a lick of humidity in the hot desert wind. My lips may not thank me, but I'm enjoying it. Which is not to say I went out in it for very long. I don't hate my skin. 

I'm booked onto The Rock Tour on Thursday-Friday where I'll take in Ayres Rock, Kata Tjuta and the surroundings, but Kings Canyon's main walk is closed because temperatures are above 36C. 

I had a bit of an issue with The Rock Tour, because originally I booked a three-day tour leaving tomorrow. Two days ago they rang me and said that nobody else was doing that itinerary so they'd have to move things around. So I'm doing a day trip to the Ranges tomorrow, instead of doing day one of three, and then leaving for a two-day tour the following day. But they gave me good customer service throughout trying to sort everything out, and I still get to see the main events - sunset and sunrise over Uluru. 

It better be worth it! All told, I've spent over £500 on coming out here, as it's not really on my way to anywhere. But it was on my list of Oz highlights, and camping in a swag under the stars will be an experience too. 

Being in the desert again reminds me of northern Chile, but Alice feels more civilised, and surprisingly less touristy. And speaking of touristy, the sun is going down and I want to walk up the one and only hill to catch sunset. Will update on my outback adventures soon! 

Sunday 9 November 2014

The Big S

So Sydney's sexy. 


I've been here three days, and apart from a wander through the CBD this afternoon, I keep gravitating back to that Opera House. I may have seen it on several occasions now, but each time it blows me away. 

Not only is it a beautiful building, but it's Australia. Along with Ayres Rock, nothing else means Down Under in the same way. 

The rest of Sydney's centre is very clean, modern and white. The city gleams in the sun, and every day I've been here the sun has been out to play. It's spring, and the days are warm and the nights chilly in the wind. But when you're watching the sun set on the fins of the Opera House, you can live with that. 

My first night here I restarted proper travelling with a bang, by climbing the Harbour Bridge. I didn't realise it's such a popular thing to do, but they have a lot of tours each day, from dawn to night. I chose a night walk, because it was cheaper, but I also wanted to see the city lights. It was expensive (over $200), but worth it. 

I gathered fearlessness to climb to the top of the magnificent arch by telling myself I'd done a skydive. But when it came to it, I didn't need courage. It was just fun. Not to mention I was preoccupied with the view. A big orange moon rose as the last of the sun's light faded and the skyscrapers of Sydney's waterfront lit up, reflected in the water under the glowing Opera House.  As a lover of cityscapes, it took my breath away. 


Yesterday I did a day trip to the Blue Mountains, so called because in the sun's rays the haze from the eucalyptus trees has a blueish tinge to it. 


They're only two hours from Sydney, and you can go by train and then take a bus to the major attractions, the most famous being The Three Sisters rock formation. This was my plan, but the train line was closed this weekend for maintenance, so I booked myself onto a tour, and it was only $20 more than the train/bus combination ticket anyway. 

There were some very impressive views, and I paid $35 extra for Scenic World, which includes a cable car and a ride on the world's steepest train down to the rainforested valley floor, but I didn't feel that was worth the money. 

Then today I met an old friend who I haven't seen in four years. I only found out she was in Sydney last week when she saw on Facebook that I was travelling again. The power of social media, ey? We walked round the bay through the botanic gardens to find the best view of Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge. It was exactly the postcard-perfect vista I was looking for. 


We also went to a British chocolate shop in Darling Harbour, and I bought Salt & Vinegar Walkers crisps for $1, because their sell-by date was yesterday. All in all, rather a good day. 

I have one day left here in The Big S, and then my plan is to go to Ayres Rock on Tuesday. I have ten days left to see my highlights of Australia, so I need to make the most of them. 

I'll sleep when I'm dead. 


Tuesday 4 November 2014

Goodbye to Melbourne

The last few weeks have been exactly how I like my life to be - crazy. 

I finished work on Friday night and then filled my time with trips, goodbye drinks and nights out, trying to see everyone I want to see before I leave my Melbourne life behind. I've been surprised how rooted I've become in just four and a half months. 

I squeezed a couple of day trips in while I was still working 45 hour weeks (moneyyyyy!) so I ticked off a trip to see the penguin parade on Phillip Island and the Neighbours studio tour last week. Then on Saturday I did a bus tour along the Great Ocean Road to the Twelve Apostles. And with that I've completed my Melbourne bucket list. 

Amongst the fun, I've been trying to plan the last leg of my trip. I only have two weeks to see the rest of Australia, and then three months in Asia. I'm actually slightly depressed the end is so close, after being away for almost nine months. But there's so much to see and do, I just need to make the most of it. 

My original plan to hop over to Fiji while still in Oz fell through, because STA Travel didn't have suitable dates for me to change my flights to leave Australia. I tried to change my flights to two weeks later a month in advance, but they didn't have availability. They did for my later flights, thankfully, so now I go home as late as possible, exactly a year after leaving for Rio Carnival in February. That feels like ages ago. 

So to soften the blow of not being able to island hop through Fiji, I booked a sojourn to the Philippines from Tokyo. I'm going to spend a week in Cebu, and the beaches look absolutely divine. The only thing is it's the end of rainy season so I'm really hoping the weather is good. Fingers crossed! 

I have so much excitement coming up in my future. Seeing the highlights of Oz, Hong Kong, going back to my old home of Tokyo after four years, the Philippines, Christmas with two old friends in Bangkok, New Year on the Thai islands, and then a month travelling with two of my best friends from home. 

But first I need to say goodbye to Melbourne. I have a farewell dinner with my aunt, uncle and cousin tonight, which will be nice. Then I'll go back to my friend Anna's house for the night. I've been staying with her and her housemates in their student house for the past few days. It's so nice to see real Australian life, and also to feel like a student again. 

And tomorrow... Roll on Sydney. 

Tuesday 14 October 2014

Hostel Life

Since I last posted nothing has changed in how much I work, but I have moved into a hostel for the last month of my time in Melbourne. My family who I was staying with had other family arriving, so that was my cue to move up into the centre. I now live on Chapel Street, in a really funky, happening area. The street is crammed full of cafés, shops, bars and clubs. It's a cosmopolitan paradise. Plus it's only 20 minutes from the restaurant where I do most of my hours, covering a supervisor's holiday. I still do my hour commute back to the café opposite my family's house every Sunday, but it's only for a month, and I get to see my friends there and go to the beach after my shift.

Living in the hostel is cool. I thought it might be difficult adjusting to sharing a room while still having the responsibilities of working over 40 hours a week, but it's been fine. I'm not often here, and when I am it's a really chilled atmosphere and there are nice people in my room. I drew the short straw and I'm on the top bunk, but it's only for a month. Human beings are great adapters. We can handle anything for a month. 

I've also managed to squeeze a social life out of Australia! I see friends from both workplaces that I'm still at, and people from the hostel. I even went clubbing on Chapel St on Sunday night (the hospitality worker's Friday night) and broke my four-month fast on dancing. That was a tough dry spell. And afterwards I was able to walk home! Gotta love this location. 

I also got stopped to do an interview for my favourite Australian radio station (Mix FM) on my way to Prahran Market today. I'm forever switching the radio to that station at work, and now my voice will be on it! I've left my mark on Melbourne. 

I've now told my bosses that I'm leaving in three weeks. They both went very quiet, and I felt so guilty. The manager of the restaurant said that he'd been very impressed with me, and that I was the kind of employee he wishes everyone could be. Talk about guilt! 

But it's definitely onwards and upwards. I can enjoy my remaining time working and living in Melbourne, but it's almost time for me to be back on the road. And boy do I have big plans! 

Sunday 31 August 2014

Working in Oz - Where everybody knows your name

I thought an update on my life in Australia was needed, as last time I posted about it before my brief sojourn back to the UK I hadn't really settled into my jobs or general life here.

Contrary to my past post about having difficulty about finding work here I have now found myself with five part-time jobs, and am actually turning down job offers, including one at a Ramada Encore hotel, which I really wanted when I interviewed for it weeks ago, but in the end it was too far away.

I've found that things take time in this country. The places I wandered into with my CV when I first arrived started to get in touch a couple of weeks ago, hence how I've ended up working all hours to save money.

The good thing about working in a restaurant, three cafes, and doing leaflet delivery on the side is that I can work them around each other and maximise my hours. Minus Mondays, which I've set aside to watch bad TV, eat at a table and not on a train, and generally catch up on sleep.

Although I don't have time for anything fun right now, I've settled into a regular routine and I am enjoying it in a slightly masochistic way. The main thing that's getting me through is the thought that it's only for a couple more months and then I'll be back on the road doing what I've come to love - travelling! I miss the freedom and the excitement of seeing new places, meeting new people and having new experiences every day. But this is an experience in itself, living and working in Melbourne. And it's a necessity for me to do everything I want to do in Asia.

I do have a good time working here. I work with nice people and get to speak Spanish at the Peruvian cafe I work at, and practise Japanese with one of my coworkers at the restaurant. And I've developed the Pavlovian response to a bell that anybody in the hospitality industry will understand. The most funny thing is that the regulars at the cafes have all quickly learnt my name and greet me cheerfully whenever I see them. It makes me feel like a part of the community here.

A community I'll soon have to leave. But we'll cross that bridge when we come to it.

Tuesday 12 August 2014

There and Back Again

After my two-week surprise trip home has somewhat clouded into an oddly distant and cherished memory, here I sit in my aunt and uncle's house in suburban Melbourne. It wouldn't be inaccurate to say I'm drifting in and out of a jetlag infused stupor, having been awake since 4.30am this morning. 

I've never had the lag this bad, and it's horrible! Especially as work starts tomorrow, and continues for the following four days. I'm going to be a mess. And upsettingly a cold mess, as my proper little summer holiday to sunny Britain (not even joking - I'm missing the best summer for years and have come back to *Australia* with an English tan) has brought me back to Melbourne's delightful winter. 

But I did have something that perked me up this afternoon. Perked up not only from the insomnia madness, but also the thought of not being on the road for several more months. I got a fourth job! It's at a café just over the road, literally a five minute walk away. This brings my job repertoire here to two cafés, a fancy restaurant, and leaflet delivering on my days off. All of varying hours, pay rates, and locations. Cue me juggling shifts like a money-crazed circus performer. 

And it is all about money. I have been looking at my finances with an attractively furrowed brow recently, but this latest addition to my CV should really help. It's easy, and comforting, to say "it's only money", but the sad truth is that when travelling the world, money equates to experiences. And that's what it's all about. 

After a few more months of working these jobs (hopefully they'll all last) I should have enough money to do a bit of Australia, although I have to say I'm starting to feel I only want to see some choice highlights and then get out of this money-drain and get to Asia, and a proper tour of South East Asia. 

I can't say I'm excited about the next chapter of my trip. It's just a time for me to pump Australia for its relatively high wages. I already can't wait to get back out there and see the world again. But money first, fun later. 

Seeing my friends back at home working 9-5 jobs and living routine lives has made me appreciate what I'm doing. I may just be working and scrimping, but I'm doing it in Australia. Albeit a cold Australia. It's just that compared to the four months prior to this section of my trip where I was constantly seeing and doing incredible things, and fulfilling childhood dreams, serving people plates of bread is a little mundane. But I've been spoiled for amazing experiences. This period will just make the next chapter all the better. 

But right now my next step is to keep awake for a few more hours. I think chocolate and some star jumps should do the trick. 

An Unexpected Journey

Three weeks ago I was resigned to a straight run of working various part time jobs in Melbourne, doing whatever I could to earn money, with not a whole lot of fun to break it up. Then, due to unforeseen circumstances at home, my travel insurance (True Traveller - who have been so great I'm never going with anyone else) paid for return flights to the UK for me to attend a funeral. They gave me the maximum two weeks they offer and paid £1300 for a flight into my hometown with Emirates. Do these things actually happen in real life? Apparently so. 

With six days notice, I asked my jobs if they would mind me disappearing for two weeks after starting with both of them the week before. I was expecting firm nos. Or at best apologetic nos. But they were both amazing, and said they would cover me and the jobs would still exist when I got back to Australia. Again... Real life? 

After a whirl of contacting friends, packing, brief sojourns to Kuala Lumpur and Dubai airports, back-to-back episodes of Under the Dome, and a stomach full of butterflies, I was standing in my house. 

I managed to keep my Saturday evening arrival a secret from my mum, who was expecting to pick me up from the airport on Sunday morning. I don't think I'll ever try to surprise someone like that again, because it was constant stress trying to get everyone to keep to my story. But it was so worth it. We both agreed it was a life moment we'd never forget. 

The two weeks I spent at home went back in a fabulous flash, full of trips to see family and friends in Wiltshire, London and Bristol, and I even managed a few nights in my own bed. I didn't think I'd see the people I saw until February next year, so every reunion was lovely. The local pub quiz, drinks in Soho, family dinner at my gran's, an evening Just Dance session... 

And this surprise return home happened six months into my year-long trip. Saying "see you in six months" after the first half of my year away went so quickly was a lot more palatable than "see you in a year". 

I did have to say goodbye to my house again though. It's still in the process of being prepped for being put on the market, and will almost definitely be in someone else's hands by the time I get back for good. In a way it was harder to say goodbye to the only family house I've ever lived in this time, partly because it was even more final than last time, and also because I didn't have that excitement of starting my trip by going to Rio for Carnival. Instead I was returning to my glamourous jobs in a cafe and restaurant in wintry, Antarctic wind-beaten Melbourne. 

But who'd've thought that I'd have a brief break from travelling the world to see my friends and family? And for free? I count myself very lucky. 

Saturday 19 July 2014

Flexibility

I said at the start of writing this blog that one of the main goals I wanted to achieve was learning to be more flexible and to go with the flow. I am someone who loves plans, and lists, and schedules. So travelling the world has been a great way for me to relax and just think, you know what? It doesn't matter if this doesn't go as planned, because it's just not that important.

And the last couple of weeks have been the biggest test so far. My granddad back in the UK died two weeks ago, sending me into a manic phase of trying to organise a way to fly back and attend the funeral. Absolutely everything was up in the air, and I was so lucky to be staying with family here, because they've given me a safe base where I can try to sort everything out.

The main thing I've been trying to sort was the possibility of my return flights being covered by my travel insurance, which I bought through True Traveller, underwritten by Global Response. And they have been absolute gems. The customer service was fantastic and they're 24 hours, with an office in the UK and in New Zealand.

We were batting back and forth, first they didn't think that I would be able to apply for my flights to be covered before buying them, and they would only be able to reimburse the cost after the fact. A couple of days later I spoke to them again and they said that they would try to push it through beforehand so I'd know if my claim was going to be successful or not. What followed was an insane couple of days, with me getting paperwork from various people together and sending it into them.

I had a phone conversation with the insurance company a couple of days ago, and the woman handling my case said that they hadn't come to an official decision, but it wasn't looking likely my claim would be successful. So I spoke to my family and had quite a blue day, knowing that I was going to miss the funeral, and the idea of seeing my family and friends was going to be snatched away from me.

Yesterday morning I had a phone call while I was still in bed, and the woman on the other end of the line asked which of the two flight itineraries she'd emailed me I wanted to choose.

My claim had been successful. And I am now flying home next weekend, for the maximum two weeks the insurance company allows. I paid the excess of GBP35, and that's covering my return flights Melbourne to my hometown. I could not be happier.

Australia is so similar to the UK, and the winter weather here in Melbourne is definitely familiar, plus I'm staying with family, so I haven't been feeling homesick. I did in South America, but from New Zealand onwards I've been in familiar territory. But I do miss my friends and family, and it's important for me to be at the funeral next week.

Luckily for me, both my jobs here have been incredibly cool about the situation. The French cafe and the fancy restaurant both told me not to worry and that my jobs would still exist when I get back. And considering I've worked at each of them for two weeks, I count myself very lucky that they're not just dismissing me straight away.

So the true cost of going home is 35 pounds plus two weeks' wages. But I think it's worth it.

So there's a lesson in being flexible. And with me being a couple of weeks off the halfway mark of my trip, I can't argue with the timeliness.

Britain - I'm coming for you!

Monday 14 July 2014

How do you get an RSA certificate for Australia?

The Responsible Serving of Alcohol (RSA) certificate allows you to serve alcohol in licensed establishments in the state that it was issued in. Every Australian state has different RSA requirements, so if you move states you'll need to get a new certificate.

Almost all jobs that involve alcohol require you to have one, so it's worth doing. I just googled for "RSA Melbourne" and chose one of the courses. It cost $39 and lasted four hours. There was a test at the end, with a pass rate of 70%, but no one failed, and they had everyone's certificates printed before the course had even started. It's that kind of course.

Having it definitely came in handy when I was job-hunting. It went straight on my resume and was just another thing I could (truthfully) say yes to in interviews.

How do you find work in Australia?

Ahh the big question. Australia - the land of opportunity? Possibly.

Now my story is that I arrived here four weeks ago, and got straight on applying for every position I was qualified for (mainly cafe, customer service and bar work) online, and in person going round shopping centres and high streets throwing my resume at anyone who would take it. I also did a Responsible Serving of Alcohol (RSA) course for $39 because I found that every bar or licensed restaurant was asking for one. It was just a four-hour course with a test at the end. Everyone passed, and they'd printed the certificates for everyone before the course even started. You get the idea.

After two weeks I had my first shift at a French cafe three train stations down the line from my family's house. That was one I'd given my resume into in person, and the manager asked me on the spot to come in a few days later for a trial shift. I'd also had a trial shift at a cafe round the corner from there, but I didn't get that one.

I heard back from several jobs, and had a few interviews in various places, but in total I'd given in over 50 resumes. So by no means do you just walk into the first job you apply for, unless you're really lucky. This is my experience, and may be because I've been looking at places quite far out from the CBD, because it's a long commute from where I'm staying to the city centre, even though it's well connected with public transport. Another limitation is that I can't drive. For an update on my job situation a month down the line, you can read my newer post.

Now to get your foot in the door, I've learnt that telling the whole truth doesn't get you far. Everywhere I went into wanted me to have experience using a coffee machine, so in the end I started saying that I had. So when I was given my trial shift at the French cafe I went straight back to a cafe that I'd given my resume into earlier that day where I'd had a chat with a really nice woman. I explained the situation and she gave me a lesson on the coffee machine, and I went back a couple of days later for more training in return for doing some cleaning and washing up. And it served me in good stead, because I got the job at the French place! And I got very good feedback on my coffee from the customers at the place I did my training, and they said that they would keep me in mind if they needed anyone in the future.

So being cheeky can pay off. And that's something I would never have dreamt of doing a few months ago. I guess I've learnt that you need to be prepared to do what it takes to get where you want to be. Just say yes.

A week after starting at the French cafe I went into a very fancy restaurant towards the CBD and asked if they were looking for staff, and before I knew it I'd done a trial shift that evening and had landed two shifts a week there.

I'm also doing leafleting for an estate agent, at a rate of $100 per 1000 leaflets I deliver to houses. So that's a bit of extra pocket money, and I get to see a lot of suburban Melbourne, which I wouldn't have if I wasn't doing that. And it's exercise too.

Now, with these two part-time jobs plus leafleting, I do have things to fill my week. But I worry about the stability of my income. Especially with the French cafe, as it's cash in hand, $12/hour (which is well below the national minimum wage of $16.87) and I just kind of fell into the job. I'm doing one or two shifts a week there. The restaurant is paying me $16/hour, and are paying me into my bank account, so that will be taxed.

So I do have money coming in, and I suppose it didn't take too long to find jobs, although I did put in a lot of work to find it. I would say that the best way to find work is to hit the streets, give in your resume to absolutely anywhere and everywhere, even if there's no job advertised, and hope you hear back. That's how I got lucky.

I think I found work here more quickly than I would have done back in the UK, but it wasn't as easy as a lot of people made out before I got here. Just be prepared to put your back into it. And if you're staying in a hostel then they can often help you out. I didn't have that luxury, staying with family.

Here are some useful websites you can use to find work. But as I say, going door to door was what did it for me.

http://www.seek.com.au
http://www.gumtree.com.au
http://www.jobs4travellers.com.au
http://www.vipstaff.com.au
http://www.octopus.jobs

And if you're looking for rural work to get your second year working holiday visa, then this looks good:

http://jobsearch.gov.au/harvesttrail/

Good luck!


How do you register for Medicare in Australia?

If you're going to be in Australia for an extended period of time, you will need to register for Medicare, otherwise you won't be covered if you have an accident or need to visit a GP or hospital.

Medicare automatically reimburses the majority of your medical costs to your bank account after you've paid it. This means if you need any medical care you only a small percentage of the cost. So it's definitely worth doing, as it's free to register.

You will need an Australian bank account, passport and proof of your visa status when you apply. You can print off the registration form and take it in to any Medicare centre. It only took a few minutes for mine to be processed and then they posted my Medicare card to me within a week.

How do you get an Australian tax file number (TFN)?

Thankfully, this is one of the easiest things to sort out once you arrive in Australia.

You'll need a tax file number (TFN) for your job, so you get taxed the right amount, and for your bank account.

If you're on a working holiday visa then you can apply online and it's a very easy process. They then post you your TFN, and say it will take up to two weeks, but mine arrived within a week.

There's also the option to print out the form and hand it in to a local post office, if you can't do it online.

How do you get an Australian phone number?

There are several phone companies, but the one that was recommended to me by literally everyone was Telstra. Everyone I met before arriving here recommended Telstra, and recommended against Vodafone.

And it just so happened that my family who live here are all on Telstra too so they just added me to their account and I pay my uncle in cash when the money leaves his account. But obviously not everyone can do this.

When we went into the Telstra store they took some details, and they were going to take a $120 deposit from me because I'd only just arrived and didn't have a job etc. We got around that by adding me to my family's account, but without that to fall back on you may need to pay that deposit. It depends on your personal circumstances though.

They offer a SIM only set-up that works like a contract but without the commitment. I pay $25/month for $200 worth of calls and texts and 200GB of data. And that continues until I cancel it, and there's no fee to cancel the arrangement, because it's not a contract.

You can also go for pay-as-you-go, where you top up your money as and when you need, but my cousin said that her friend found the charges were quite high, especially for data, and she was topping up a lot. I've been without data for over four months, so I was quite keen to get the convenience that offers. And with wandering around for various job interviews in every suburb of the city, I've found it very useful.

If you're planning to be in Australia for a long time then a contract might be worth going for, but for me the monthly plan was a good halfway house.

Saturday 5 July 2014

How do you set up an Australian bank account?

If you're going to look for work in Australia then you'll need to set up a bank account for your payment. If you're sure the jobs you do will be cash in hand then you won't need one, but otherwise it's a good idea to do it.

I went with Westpac but a lot of travellers I've met have also gone with Commonwealth. I went with Westpac because that's who my family here are with and it was just easier for me to open accounts with them too.

It's just a case of taking your passport and proof of visa to open the account. You may also need your tax file number (TFN), which you apply for online. I didn't have that (and I didn't have an Australian phone number either) but I opened the account and emailed the personal banker once I'd sorted them.

I went for a standard 'Choice' account (a current account, if you're British), a savings account, and a Super Fund account. This is something that was recommended I do by someone with a Finance degree in New Zealand, and when I asked in the bank if I could do it the banker said "Ooh, you've done your research." So I think it's something you should do!

Basically a Super Fund is like a pension fund, that your employer will pay into every month. You can reclaim this money when you leave, minus a proportion of it that is taxed. But it's a good idea to open a Super Fund account because if you have multiple employers during your time in Australia then they'll pay it into a Super Fund account of their choosing and you could end up with several, and then it's easier to lose track of them and ultimately end up losing money.