Oh Happy Day

I started volunteering this morning, with a three-hour shift at the animal conservation centre. It was hard work, but it was so cool. They have so many animals! I was really surprised how big it was. I went into some of the safer cages to feed clean and feed the animals, which was great.

And before that shift, I got up early with my host father and we went to buy tickets for Machu Picchu, so that's happening! This weekend Milena and I are staying in Aguas Calientes overnight and going up to Machu Picchu early on Sunday morning. I'm so excited. And it's my 25th birthday the following Wednesday, so what better birthday present to myself is there than a visit to one of the most iconic places in the world? 

And the good times continued with my first Spanish lesson this afternoon, which are included in the volunteering fee. I opted for private lessons, because when given the choice between group lessons or a private lesson where the focus is on your individual needs, what are you going to choose? 

It was a real confidence-boost. The teacher, Roberth, seemed impressed when I said that I'd got to where I am through self study. But I want to be better. So this evening I came back with fresh enthusiasm for Spanish study and did my homework. Gotta love those verbs. 

It's nice to have a routine, even if that routine does involve getting up at 6.45. And I'm very happy with my host family and the other volunteers I'm living with. Tomorrow night I'm going to a salsa class (free provided by the charity I'm working with) and then I've read that there's a place nearby that does good fish and chips. Cue drool. So that's getting a visit after we salsa our feet sore. I used to do salsa at home so it'll be nice to rekindle that old flame. As a disappointing addition, we went to find the Real McCoy British restaurant, and it closed down a few months ago. Wasted drool. 

I'm building a nice life for myself here in Cusco. It's just a shame that in two weeks I'll be back in the road and it'll just be a memory. I'll enjoy it while I have it. 

Cusco, the City in the Clouds

I arrived in Cusco (Cuzco in Spanish) on Thursday morning. I'm here for two weeks of volunteering, which starts tomorrow, and for sightseeing. Cusco is the closest big city to Machu Picchu, so has quite a large tourist population.

The thing about Cusco is that it's in the mountains. And I mean, high in the mountains. At an ear-popping 3,400 metres above sea level, it's easily the highest I've been in my life. It also means that altitude sickness can be an issue for many visitors to this fine city (which is so much nicer than Lima by the way). 

First off, altitude sickness can be fatal, so it's a fun bugger. There are some horrible possible symptoms, including fainting, vomiting, diarrhoea, headaches, insomnia, death... You know. 

So it's recommended not to fly here from sea level, but to gradually acclimatise as you ascend. This didn't work with my schedule, so unfortunately I had to fly. And I have to say, I have been fine so far. I did take precautions though. I bought some Sorojchi altitude sickness pills in Lima and took my first one on the plane. A box of 20 pills cost 40 soles. I also drank two cups of coca tea (mate de coca) at Lima airport. They sell it for 3.50 soles. The locals drink it to stave off the effects of altitude. I also drank a lot of water, because the headache associated with el mal de altura can be caused in large part by dehydration. 

When the plane opened its doors and I made my way out I had the oddest sensation. I felt like I, and everyone around me, was moving in slow motion. My legs were heavy, as if I were wading through treacle. And I was a bit lightheaded. The air was noticeably different. 

But within a few hours I felt relatively normal, but very tired. I slept very well on Thursday night. 

I think I've pretty much acclimatised to the thin air now, without too much heartache. But walking is hard work, especially uphill. I get out of breath very quickly. 

But I tell you what, it's worth it for the views. Cusco was built when its founder decided he had found 'the naval of the world'. It's nestled in an Andean valley surrounded on all sides by rolling mountains, and snow-capped peaks stand sentinel at one end of the city. You can see the mountains wherever you can see the sky in Cusco, which is lovely. 

The climate is really nice here too (at least it is at the moment, as the last clutches of rainy season lose their grip). The days are warm, but the sun is really intense so it feels much hotter than it is. And the nights are quite cool, if not cold. It's the best of both worlds, because you get the pleasant weather without the uncomfortable sweaty nights. 

This morning my housemate Sarah (I'm doing a homestay for the next two weeks, with an incredibly sweet retired couple) and I took a minibus to Pisac. Pisac is a small village about a 45 minute drive from Cusco. We went to the huge market they have there on Sundays and spent the morning wandering through the alleyways perusing the souvenirs, jewellery, alpaca hats, dolls and food. I ticked two Peru essentials off my list - I bought a bracelet and an alpaca hat. My excuse for the hat is that I'm going to autumnal New Zealand soon, and I'm going to need a warm hat. And for 10 soles, who can argue with the Peruvian price? 

And now I'm going to go to sleep (lack of oxygen, you know...) and get up early to try and book train tickets for Milena and I to go to Machu Picchu next weekend. (Milena is currently in Bolivia after we went our separate ways in Argentina but her flight to the US leaves Cusco next week so we're going to the big MP together before she leaves). 

Then I've got my first morning volunteering at the animal conservation centre, so fingers crossed everything goes smoothly! 

San Pedro Lodge, Iquitos

I decided that San Pedro Lodge deserves its own post, because it made my stay in the Amazon comfortable, enjoyable and unforgettable.

Located about 45 minutes from Iquitos airport and 90 minutes from the main port of Iquitos, the lodge is nestled on a hill just above the riverbank (during high-water season) in the small San Pedro village. 

Its owners are fantastic. So helpful and flexible, and easy to talk to. There's a nice communal area enclosed in mosquito netting, with the eating area and the kitchen, with some board games under the table. That's in the main building, the only one that has electricity, so you can charge your electronics during the evening. There's also a covered area with hammocks that overlooks the garden sloping down to the river. There are two cats and a dog who play around the site as well. 

The food they serve (breakfast is included, lunch is included when you do day tours, and sometimes dinner too, otherwise dinner is 15 soles) is fantastic. There's a great mix of fish, meat, vegetables, rice, pasta, potatoes and beans. It's all very fresh and the portions are good. They also cater to vegetarians. 

The bungalows are clean and comfortable. There's no glass on the windows, just mosquito netting, which allows a good breeze to flow through the room during the night. Mosquito nets are also provided on all beds. The roof is thatched, and there are small holes in it, but I had no unwelcome encounters with any animals in my bungalow. 

The toilets are clean and flush well. The sinks work fine too. The showers aren't warm but the pressure is good. 

They organise day tours which you can book onto when you arrive, and as with me, if you're travelling alone and there aren't enough people to do one of the set tours, they can arrange a private guide that you pay directly. I did their jungle tour the first day, and then I made my own itinerary for the second day.

It's a not-for-profit organisation, and you won't find better prices for a similar thing in the area. The airport transfers and boat transfers from lodge to Iquitos are included in the room price. The vibe there is really chilled. I made some great friends in just three days there. 

I would absolutely recommend San Pedro Lodge if you're looking to stay in the jungle rather than an air conditioned pool resort in Iquitos. It isn't too far into the jungle, so if you're looking for absolute seclusion you might want to consider somewhere further in, although you will pay more. 

If you go to this lodge, you will have a blast. I've already recommended it to friends, and I like my friends, so you can trust my recommendation. Go and enjoy it! 

Jungle Lodge near Iquitos: Part Two

My second (and last) full day in the Amazon was my day of sight-seeing around the Iquitos city area. Because I was travelling alone, I wasn't able to do the day tours at San Pedro Lodge because they need at least two people, and the other guests had already done them. But because the guys at the lodge are awesome, they arranged for me to take their local guide for a one-on-one day tour, and I was able to create the itinerary myself. That cost me 100 soles (about £25) for the guide, plus entrance fees as necessary. 

It was a 6.30am start, to get into the city early enough to see everything. Our first stop was something I've wanted to see since I saw a picture of it as a child. 'The meeting of the waters', where two rivers of different colours meet and run side by side. The confluence of the Amazon river and the Nanay river is just north of Iquitos, literally five minutes by boat. I was expecting to be underwhelmed, because as a child I'd built it up to be something magical. And it wasn't magical, but I wasn't underwhelmed. Mainly because I had finally seen it with my own eyes, and that was special. 

We continued from the confluence to the Serpentario, an animal conservation centre on the shore of the Amazon river. They had monkeys which we fed nuts to, and I had to literally unwind one monkey's tail from my arm when it was time to move on. There was a sloth with a baby clinging to its breast, a macaw (a feather from which I still have) and two anacondas, one with a rabbit-sized bulge halfway down its body. 

After a photo shoot with each animal, we headed to the river again, this time to meet the native Bora tribe. The Bora, living close to Iquitos, are no strangers to foreigners, Coca Cola or TV (one had a Disney princess bag) but going to meet them in their large hut suspended on wooden stilts above the swollen river was still an experience. They invite visitors to take part in a traditional dance, which was cringey, but interesting. A large part of it was sales tactics. They had a lot of homemade jewellery and small wooden turtles (one of which I bought as 'my thing from Peru'), and my guide explained that they use anaconda skin and piranha teeth in their wares. There was even a blowgun which they showed me how to use. As with most Peruvian salespeople, they were quite pushy. One woman even put an anaconda bracelet on my wrist and said 'Compre!' (Buy!) I did not buy. 

It was definitely interesting going to see the tribe, but I did feel slightly uncomfortable with the situation. 

Back on the boat, we went pink river dolphin hunting. And I saw several! I didn't expect to see any, but apparently there are rich fish stocks around the river confluence, so we went there and waited. We were rewarded several times with the huff of exhaling as they came to the surface to breathe. They were actually pink! And dolphin-like. 

The next stop on the itinerary was Belén market. Belén is a poorer area of Iquitos, so it's advisable to watch your things as you walk through the vast and crowded market. It's like a maze. If I hadn't have had Jino to guide me, I would not have had a clue where to go. But we walked through fish markets; herb stalls, the scent heavy in the air; a table covered in dismembered turtles; meat stands surrounded by actual vultures sitting on the power lines above... There was even an ancient TV showing Abba videos. It's both a treat and a claustrophobic nightmare for the senses, but it was great to see it, and we tried some things for free - a sweet aphrodisiac wine and small snacks made from yucca plant being the best in my opinion. 

And the final stop we made was the floating city of Belén. You can hire someone to take you out in a boat to see it. Otherwise there's no way to see it properly. It is what it says on the tin - a floating world where houses, bars, petrol stations and public toilets float together, bobbing with the waves from passing boats. Children were playing in the same filthy water that toilets empty into, women were washing clothes on their doorsteps, feet dangling in the river... It was eye-opening. I hadn't known what to expect, but I'm glad I went there. We also saw giant lilies floating on the water in a quiet straight of water behind a floating bar. I also saw some children catch a fish, which Jino pointed out was a piranha. 

It was a packed day, but I saw everything I wanted to. The Amazon is a different world - fascinating plants, manic markets, a natural wonderland crisscrossed by peaceful passageways paved with perfect mirrors through the treetops. 

If you have the chance to go, don't let any fears you have get in the way. You won't regret it. 

Jungle Lodge near Iquitos: Part One

Going to the Amazon was something I was thrilled and terrified about.

Thrilled because I was going to go to the AMAZON. Terrified because I hate spiders. Yes, that's the only reason... But there was no way that I was going to go to Peru and not go into the rainforest. So it was kind of something that I was forcing myself to do because it would be a growing experience. Which is what this trip is all about. 

So, despite the occasional nightmare involving waking up covered in flesh-eating spiders, last Saturday I flew with Star Perú to Iquitos from Lima. The flight cost about £90, so it wasn't too expensive. South American flights are not cheap, and international ones within the continent are very expensive. More so than Europe. 

My flight stopped in Tarapoto, a city just outside of the jungle. I'd never been on a flight that has just stopped and then continued to its final destination. The flight over the Andes to Tarapoto was quite bumpy, but that was to be expected, as it's still rainy season in the highlands. 

We stopped for a short while, changed passengers, and then were back in the air on the way to Iquitos. Iquitos is the largest city on earth that is not accessible by road. It's either a flight or a three-day boat ride from the nearest non-jungle civilisation. But it's a proper thriving city, despite being in the middle of the rainforest. It has clubs, a University, and several distinct districts. 

As we descended and broke the cloud cover this view came into sight. Can you get any more Amazon? 

Landing in Iquitos brought a big difference in weather from Lima, which is because of the huge barrier of the Andes. It wasn't as hot or humid as I was expecting, but it had obviously been raining that day as the runway was quite waterlogged when we landed in our toy-size plane (there weren't a lot of rows). 

I was met outside the airport by a motokarrista (a driver of a motokar, which is like the front of a motorbike attached to a covered seat with two wheels). This had all been arranged by my lodge, which I'll talk about later. 

At first the roads were fine. Then we turned off onto a dirt track to the port where the lodge's boat was waiting. I have never been on such a poor quality road. At one point we came across a timber truck stuck in the mud. The buildings had also changed from closer to the airport. The concrete and tile had turned to corrugated iron and thatched reeds. This was when it first looked to me like a jungle city. But of course every house had its satellite dish. 

The two men from the lodge greeted me at the port and helped me into their boat, which had about four rows of seats big enough for two, and a covered top. And on the half an hour journey down the river to the lodge I saw the first thing that made me delighted that I went to the Amazon. 

Because it was high-water season, when the rivers swell and engulf everything in their path, just the tops of the trees were visible above the water. For the shorter trees that stood alone from the general tangle of treetops this meant they looked like bushes. And their black silhouettes were reflected perfectly in the silver river beneath them, making it look like there were floating black snowflakes against a twilight sky. 

It was so surreal. And so beautiful. I knew I wouldn't regret going there then. 

I was greeted at the lodge by the owner, Cato, a Norweigan hippy with a Masters degree in finance, shacking up in the middle of the rainforest. Then I was shown to my bungalow, with a powerful torch, and shown how to use the mosquito net. It was a small twin room, but had plenty of space, even for two people. The bungalow itself had two halves, and two Finnish girls were in the other half, who I got on really well and ended up going out for dinner with when we got back to Lima. There was a shared bathroom between the two rooms, which worked absolutely fine. There was no glass in the windows, but rather a strip of mosquito netting separating me from the outside world. 

Now there I was, rucksack on my back, torch in hand, searching high and low for any hint of spiders. And could I find any? No I could not. I was delighted. I didn't come into contact with any spiders at the lodge at all, which may have had something to do with the two cats they had. I did, however, have one encounter of the eight-legged kind, but that will come later. 

Once I was satisfied I wouldn't become the hive for the next generation of arachnids, I went back to the main building of the lodge, which was the only one that had electricity. I met the other guests, a Chilean family, a German-Peruvian married couple, and the two Finnish girls. They were all really cool and we got on really well over the following few days. 

I asked around what day tours (all provided by San Pedro Lodge where I stayed) they were planning on doing the following day, and it was a resounding Day 3 - the jungle trek. So I tagged along, and actually couldn't wait to explore. I slept surprisingly well. The temperature was very comfortable, but it was humid. My sleep was completely uninterrupted until the dawn chorus of frogs, birds and the local Amazonian roosters. 

We had to get up at 6am anyway for a 6.30 breakfast and early start to the hike. The trek lasted four and a half hours, and was amazing. We started off by walking through the local San Pedro village, and met some of the locals, washing their clothes and cleaning their teeth in a pond. Then we were into the forest, following chocolate-coloured trails through the moist greenery. 

Our guide would point out specific plants of interest. There was a fern that quickly retracted when touched; a tree that bled a milky substance that can be smoked to treat hernias; and another tree that's sap ran blood-red until you rub it into your skin, where it turns a chalky white, and can be taken to relieve muscle pain. 

We went through deep jungle where the dead leaves threatened to swallow our feet, sandy savannah-like terrain, charred deforested areas littered with ashen tree trunks, and sparsely-populated woods with monkeys playing in the canopy above. 

I was using 100% DEET bugspray, which is meant to last 12 hours, but I was constantly reapplying it to air on the side of caution. I was taking malaria pills (Doxycycline) but they are not always completely effective. As a side note, I haven't had any side effects from the malaria pills, which is always a worry, so I was relieved about that. And I was only bitten three times during my four days in the jungle, so the spray does work. 

The goal of our trek through the jungle was to reach a 400 year old tree, which stood in a small clearing surrounded by impenetrable undergrowth. The tree was enormous, with roots that dwarfed me, and I'm 6'2.

It even had vines hanging from its uppermost branches, which I could just reach. That obviously called for a Tarzan moment. 

We took a break at the tree, and by that point in the morning it was already hot and humid, and when the breeze dropped the air was very close. They gave us a bottle of water each (and rubber boots) at the lodge, but I'd brought a bottle of my own and I was very glad I did. 

On the way back to the lodge we found a crossing of leaf-cutter ants, carrying their cargo in a perfect line across the trail and into the bushes. At the other end of the nature spectrum we also walked through a remote village where I spotted a 'Commando Force' towel hanging on a washing line. 

Upsettingly, there was quite a lot of plastic litter around the population areas we walked through. It really highlighted to me the need for education in rural communities as to what will biodegrade and what won't. 

We got back to the lodge around midday, exhausted and ready for lunch, but I was so happy that I'd seen everything I had done. We had a fish lunch, which was delicious, and a bit of a siesta before taking to the river for fishing in dug-out canoes. 

Now I had a lot of trouble getting my canoe to bend to my will. Unless my will was to spin in circles and head on collision courses with treetops. But with the help of the guide I made it to our first fishing stop. I was so pleased to find a bare tree trunk sticking out of the water I reached out and grabbed it for security (apparently a lot of people overturn the canoes) I didn't check it for wildlife. And this is where I had my spider run-in. Right below my hand was a long-legged, fat-bodied spider sporting a comforting red blotch on its black back. As soon as I saw it I recoiled and probably gasped embarrassingly loudly. But thanks to the canoe, all I could do was bob back and forth comically, as I tried to angle my oar to lever myself back to open water. I got away as the spider started to climb skyward. The guide said that it wasn't dangerous, but I wasn't taking any chances. In my haste to escape the spider tree I found myself colliding with an ant-infested one. Yay nature. 

Shockingly I didn't catch any fish, but a couple of others in the group did, so it can be done. It spattered a bit with rain, but not too much and then the sun came back out for our paddle back to the lodge. 

I ended my first full day in the Amazon with an amazing meal of meats, beans, rice and vegetables. And a political debate about the future of the world's markets. What better place to put the world to rights than the lungs of the earth, right? 

Lima Ain't So Bad

I have been in Peru for less than 24 hours. Or rather, just Lima. For less than 24 hours. But I feel this gives me the right to make some snap decisions about the country and publish them. First impressions count, right? 

Firstly, I judged Lima too harshly. It does have a bad reputation for crime and being a bit dirty and boring. (Yay for Lima). But the area I'm staying in, near the Historic Centre, is actually very nice. It doesn't have the excitement of Rio, or the beauty of Buenos Aires, but it has charm. Just across from my hostel there's a wide park with European-style lampposts, a large art museum in a beautiful old building, and a row of street vendors selling everything from corn on the cob to churros. Lima is also famous for its food, so I'm going to take a wander over to the river later and see what I can rustle up. It's also the second driest capital city in the world, after Cairo. 

So here are some other observations from today: 

Summer is drawing to a close here, but it's still not as hot as I expected it to be. I'm now further north than Rio, where it was boiling hot. The sun is intense, but it's only hitting about 27 degrees. I'm sure the Amazon will be a different story though. 

Lima  is not as cheap as you want it to be. 

A lot of people look Peruvian. As in, the Quechua look - dark skin, dark, wiry hair, relatively flat noses. Don't quote me on this, but I've heard about 45% of Peru's population have close blood links with the indigenous population of the country. 

The fashion is generally quite chavvy. It's like Peru is aiming to be a nation of Miami gangsters and Hildas from Ugly Betty. 

Tess Daly's twin is on TV here. 

Every city I've been to in South America has the same street names. They're either named after dates, countries, cities or people. The amount of Venezuelas I've walked down is insane. 

People seem to think car horns are respirators. Give it a rest, people! 

Avril Lavigne is still alive, apparently. 

The green man at pedestrian crossings actually runs. Amazing. 

Evidently it's acceptable to put a small woman in a metal box on stilts in the middle of a busy road intersection, and give her a yellow flag and a whistle to direct traffic. That's what London's doing wrong! 

But all sarcasm aside, I think Lima's a perfectly fine city. Just choose where you stay, and go, carefully. I've made it my base for the first week of my Peruvian travels, as I fly out to Iquitos (the Amazon city) tomorrow, and return on Tuesday. Then I fly to Cusco (the closest city to Machu Picchu) on Thursday morning. Originally I was intending to take the bus to Cusco, but after reading up on the journey I decided against it. Lonely Planet warned not to take overnight journeys, as bus robberies can occur. With a 21-hour bus trip, night time is kind of unavoidable. It also said that landslides due to rain at this time of year (rainy season in the Andes lasts until March/ April) can cause fatal accidents. And flying was only £17 more. I think my decision was made for me. The only downside of flying is the enhanced altitude sickness. Going by bus is still bad, but at least it's a gradual climb. I'm going to go from 0 to 3,400 metres in an hour and ten minutes. Pass me the coca leaves! 

Hopefully I'll have more of a chance to explore Lima next week, but to be honest I'm not in Peru for its capital city. There's a lot of excitement coming up in the next few weeks! 

Don't Cry For Me

See how much thought I put into these witty titles!? I treat you guys so well.

So yes! I have left Argentina. I finished my stay there with an amazing Argentine steak last night. A guy I met in Iguazu and I went to a place called Desnivel, at Defensa 855. It was absolutely the best steak I have ever tasted. So I did the tango, and I did the steak. I did Buenos Aires.

Today was a very long day, starting at 6am getting up to go to Buenos Aires airport, and then a flight to Santiago, and then a connection up to Lima, Peru. But the second flight was delayed by three hours! We got into the plane and then a group of technical looking men with moustaches got on and we all had to get off. Technically making this the second day in a week I've been to three countries in one day. Boom. 

For European readers of this blog, you might be interested to know that the interior of the faulty plane was EasyJet. Their branding was all over the shop. I chuckled to myself amid the devastated sobs as we filed back to the departure lounge.

I flew with Sky Airline, and they were fine. We got food at least. And if you ignore the plane change. They kind of are the budget airline for South America, minus the budget. My flight cost me just over 300 pounds, and that was the cheapest I found the Buenos Aires to Lima route. This continent is not as cheap as you think! But long bus journeys are the norm, and South American citizens get cheaper rates on airfares, so they probably make a lot of their money from foreigners. 

Eventually I got to Lima! Which is kind of gross. Or at least the parts I drove through in the taxi. Get a taxi! Lonely Planet recommended Taxi Green, which is right there when you come out of the Arrivals hall. It was expensive (60 soles) but worth it for the peace of mind. 

My hostel is gorgeous. I can't fault it so far. It's in a converted mansion opposite an art museum, and is called 1900 Backpackers. The road is very loud outside, but I'm exhausted. I think I'll sleep anyway. 

As an aside, people cannot drive here. It's insane. It's not exactly filling me with confidence for getting up to Cusco in the Andes when I emerge Tarzan-like from the Amazon next week... 

Oh! We flew over the Andes. Holy Moley they are beautiful. And they just rise up out of the Chilean plains so suddenly. I'm looking forward to going to Santiago properly to take a closer look. 

Anyway. This post is kind of frantic so now, on the one-month anniversary of my leaving the UK, I'm going to sleep! Buenos noches and all that jazz. 

It Takes Two in Buenos Aires

Tonight I did something I've been looking forward to since I planned to come to Buenos Aires - a tango class!

It was at Confitería Ideal, on Suipacha, which Lonely Planet says is one of the tango meccas of BA. It happens to be about 10 minutes' walk from my hostel so I went round. You don't have to book, and it only costs AR$60 for a 90-minute lesson. Seriously can't complain! 

The building was absolutely gorgeous. And the hall we had the lesson in was incredibly grand, with red, black and gold pillars, tables and ornaments. The pillars culminated in an impressive roof with a patterned atrium. You could almost smell the tango. 

In the lesson we went through the basics and learned a basic routine. We also learned to "show intention through your chest". My chest has never had such intent, I can tell you now. 

The teacher was great. She was passionate and intense, and only spoke Spanish, so when I danced with her she stared into my eyes and occasionally uttered commands and a few gratifying 'Muy bien's. There was an official translator too, so although I understood quite a bit of what she was saying, and picked up some new dance-related vocabulary, it was helpful to have him there. 

I left feeling oddly confident, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. So did Nik, a guy I met in Iguazú, as he was keen to do a class too. Now I can appreciate the tango I see around the city a bit more. And seriously, the tango is everywhere. I was worried that I might miss out so I booked tickets to see a professional performance at Café Tortoni. And then stumbled across dancing at the park, outside a restaurant, in a souvenir shop... But I'm still glad I got to do the whole red curtain and stage thing at the Café. Definitely go to La Boca and see tango at Caminito. The atmosphere's fantastic. But go during the day, and give yourself time to leave La Boca before dusk. 

So to sum up, if you're in Buenos Aires and looking for a good, and cheap, tango lesson, Confitería Ideal is... ideal. 

I've got one day left in this lovely city, and then I fly to Peru. Milena left last night to explore other parts of Argentina. But we'll meet again in Cusco for my 25th birthday, so I'm looking forward to that. I'm really enjoying Argentina. It's a really funky, cool country. I might try to hop across the Andes (casual) from Santiago and visit Mendoza if I have time at the end of my South American travels... 

Iguassu Falls

I know I`ve already raved about the Falls on my previous post, but today we went back to them, this time to the Argentinian side. And oh my god it`s even better than the Brazilian side.

While I would still recommend doing both (same as everyone), the Argentinian side is fit to bursting with stuff to do, including boat trips and easily accessible walks. And the walks don`t last 9km like one on the Brazilian side.

We did all of the walks (being three) and also got a combined ticket for two of the three boat trips. We went for the Aventura Nautica and Paseo Ecológico for AR$300. The other boat trip available was the Gran Aventura, but that takes about 80 minutes. Who has time for that.

The first one we went on the 20-minute Aventura Nautica, which takes you right up to the Falls in two places, and gets everyone in the boat soaking wet. You do get a waterproof bag to put your things in, and I changed into my swimming shorts (I was wearing them under my shorts) and flip flops because I`d heard how wet you get. And you`re literally as wet as if you`ve jumped into the river. But it`s so worth it. The views from the very bottom are incredible (when you can see through the spray) and it`s exhilerating to bounce your way up the rapids towards the cataracts and see them so close up.

We finished the day with the Paseo Ecológico, which was a relaxing boat ride along the forested waterways on top of the Falls. That was a really nice thing to finish with as it`s very calming and you get to see some wildlife along the way.

But right before we did that, we did the actual best part of the entire thing. Seeing the Devil`s Throat from the Brazilian side was fantastic, seeing it from the Argentinian is mind-blowing. You get so close to it you feel like you could be hovering over the semi-circle of pouring water, spraying mist and thundering noise. There`s an omnipresent rainbow here as well, which makes it all the more impressive.

This, for me, was the absolute do-not-miss of all of the Falls. In fact, I think it`s the most impressive natural thing I`ve seen in my life. The world will have to do very well to top it. You do get very wet from the spray coming up, but you don`t care because the sight is amazing. Milena`s review is: "IT`S SUPER AMAZING". That says it all.

We are slightly disappointed though, because we found out while we were here that you can do moonlight visits to the Falls for the five nights surrounding the full moon. Which starts tomorrow! So close...

But tomorrow we`re getting on the overnight bus to Buenos Aires (another 20 hours on a bus, how delicious...) but we paid for `cama` (bed) which looks a lot more comfortable than the Convencional we had coming here from Sao Paulo. Very much looking forward to Buenos Aires, I`ve heard very good things about it so let`s see.

Three Countries, One Day

Being at Iguassu Falls gives you the opportunity to visit all three countries that meet here at 'Tres Fronteras' - Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay. 

Yesterday Milena and I went to the Brazilian side of the Falls, and they are breathtaking. Such an amazing sight. As we rounded the corner of the forest trail and caught our first sight I couldn't help but stop and point. I'm pretty sure my mouth fell open. What a loser. But it was a view I'd wanted to see since I was a child, and it was worth the wait. And the 15 hours on the bus to get here. 

We did the whole trail, crescendoing with the awe-inspiring, and soaking, Devil's Throat. There are platforms that go right to the lip and look down over the pouring water. And the best part was the rainbow stretching across the canyon at the foot of the falling water. Absolutely beautiful. 

We are going to the Argentinian side of the Falls tomorrow to do a boat trip and do the other activities on that side. But today we decided to stay dry and go to Paraguay for the afternoon. Casual. 

We took the bus from Puerto Iguazú, Argentina to Ciudad del Este, Paraguay this afternoon, and found that the bus went back through Brazil to get there. Although we didn't have to stop at the Brazilian border, so we just got our Argentinian exit stamps and Paraguayan ones. 

Ciudad del Este seems to be an electronics and shopping mecca for people from all the surrounding countries. As soon as you're through the border you're confronted with markets, department stores and street-sellers peddling everything from handbags to iPhones. It reminded me of Akihabara in Tokyo. And I actually found an iPhone 5S for the equivalent of £108. I was so tempted. But no, if something was wrong with it, I'd never get that money back. So I refrained. 

The interesting thing was that, being on the triple border, most places took a variety of currency. The place we had lunch asked if we wanted to pay for it in Uruguayan Guarani, Brazilian Real, Argentinian Pesos or US dollars. Spoilt for choice! 

The ATMs also give you the option to withdraw US dollars, which is very handy, as you can exchange dollars on the black market in Argentina for a much more favourable rate than the official rate. The current official rate is 7 pesos to the dollar, whereas you can get 13 pesos by talking to the "right" people. 

Leaving Paraguay, we had to wait over an hour at the border for the bus back to Argentina (via Brazil of course) so that was a bit of a grind, but we got back eventually, our passports even more overflowing with exit and entry stamps. 

It was interesting that Ciudad del Este was the first place I've been to in the last three weeks that I've actually felt was a developing country. Everywhere else in Brazil and Argentina could have easily been Spain or Italy. I need to get used to it though, I imagine Peru to be quite similar. But I'll find that out in just over a week! 

15 Hours on a Bus

And I survived! It's the longest I've ever been on a mode of transport, including flying, so it was a bit of a trial. We had to go for the Convencional bus, which is the cheapest, so it got us from Sao Paulo to Foz do Iguacu for 30 pounds, which is really good. But it also meant limited legroom, a slightly reclining seat and not a lot of other comforts. But it was actually fine. We had regular stops for toilets (there was a toilet on the bus though) and we even went to a couple of roadhouses where they gave us all an electronic card and we took food from a hot buffet and then paid our tab on the way out. Not too shabby!

For me, as someone who is prone to travel sickness just driving down my road in Birmingham, I was worried that it would be a hellish journey. I took a couple of travel sickness pills before we left, and if they did anything then they worked, because I was fine, and even got a few hours sleep.

We have another long bus journey coming up soon, from Puerto Iguazú (on the Argentinian side of Iguassu Falls) to Buenos Aires, but we're going to splash out the extra 10 pounds and go for a semi-cama one, which should recline to almost bed gradient, and apparently they serve you food too!

Overall, as quite an uptight traveller, I was impressed with the journey and am no longer worried about going long distances by bus. Which is handy really, as I have a hell of a lot of them coming up! But not Buenos Aires to Peru. That mother of a distance is getting flown.

Tomorrow Milena and I are finally going to visit Iguassu Falls themselves (on the Brazilian side) so I can fulfil that dream. Along my trip I have several glowing hotspots that I'm really looking forward to seeing, and this is one of them. Hopefully it won't disappoint!

São Paulo

So São Paulo does not have a good reputation. It's billed as a massive smog-choked metropolis with not much to see, but with good food and a booming nightlife scene. So I was expecting a grey, depressing city that stretches to the foothills of Mt. Doom.

And when our bus pulled into Tiete bus station last night, it was smog-filled, and it was grey. But then when we were leaving for the nearest metro station (with bus tickets for the following day to Iguassu Falls - yay!) the clouds parted and the sunset bloomed over the pedestrian squares and skyscrapers, and it was actually a lovely sight. I love cities anyway, so being in the largest city in the southern hemisphere probably suits me. Now I've lived in Tokyo and been here I've completed the set and been to the largest cities in the both the northern and southern hemispheres. Cross that off my list!

This city seems to work better than Rio. Rio is very relaxed, and while São Paulo is still very Brazilian, it seems more efficient, with a much more comprehensive and user-friendly metro system, recycling bins (!?) and an overall sense of organisation.

And interestingly, the people here seem friendly than in Rio, which really surprised me. You'd think that in sun-soaked and beach-surrounded Rio, people would be more relaxed and more willing to give a smile, but they seem relaxed and also cold. I have only spent one day in São Paulo, so I might be being too quick to compare, but that was my first impression.

Last night Milena and I went to São Paulo's Japan Town for dinner (there's a huge Japanese population here), which is something I've been really looking forward to, as I haven't been to Japan since 2010. We had onigiri, gyoza, and I had tempura udon for my main. Oh what a feast. I took photos of everything, obvz.

Today we're going to take in some of São Paulo's museums - Milena is keen to see a building within a building (don't ask me...) so that sounds worth a look. And we found a Sukiya (a Japanese restaurant chain) right by our hostel, so we're definitely going there for lunch!

I'd actually really recommend the hostel we're staying in. It's Hey Hostel, near Faria Lima metro station. It's near some funky bars and seems like a safe neighbourhood (which is very important when choosing a hostel in this city). The staff are nice and helpful, and the building is clean and secure. Definitely a winner.

Here are some photos of our second day in the city.

Tonight I'm spending the night on a bus for the first time in my life. This could be terrible, but we'll see. The blow should be softened when we arrive at Iguassu Falls tomorrow. I can't wait to see them. That's one of the points along my journey that I've wanted to see since I was a child, so bring it on!

"Don't worry, take it easy."

Seemingly the Brazilian mantra. So many people have said that exact phrase to me. When I asked the owner of my last hostel in Santa Teresa, Rio whether she wanted paying now or later for the laundry she laughed and said "You're so funny! Don't worry, take it easy." (I took that to mean she didn't want paying. I was wrong).

Other Brazilian things I've noticed: 

No one will happily accept a note larger than R$20. To put that into perspective, the next note up (R$50) is worth £12.50. Drives me crazy. 

If a taxi driver doesn't know where a place is, he will kick you out of the taxi. 

Flip flops and shorts are the national uniform. 

Spoken Portuguese is nothing like Spanish. If you think it is, you're wrong. If you think speaking Spanish will help you understand when someone speaks to you, re-evaluate your life. But on the bright side, written is generally okay. I basically just need the phrase 'I don't speak Portuguese, but would you mind writing everything you want to say down in my handy notepad?' 

Oh! And as a side note, more about travelling in general than Brazil. I'd read that when you're backpacking you meet people and then keep bumping into them along the tourist trail. I was like 'Yeah, maybe once or twice...' In the last two days I've bumped into four separate people I've stayed with in hostels in other cities. I'm currently in Paraty (a lovely colonial town four hours or so outside of Rio) in a dorm with two people who were in my first hostel in Botafogo, Rio. There's a storm outside, and the roof is leaking, but that's a story for another day.

It's a gorgeous place though.

Tomorrow Milena and I are going to São Paulo, with a change on the bus because you can't book in advance in Brazil without a Brazilian tax code (need to sort that out before foreigners descend on you for the World Cup/ Olympics, Brazil) or by paying commission to an English language bus middleman. And the plan is to be there for just one night before getting a bus to Iguassu Falls, but if all the buses are booked we might be there longer. (Again, sort it out Brazil!) 

Can't wait to see the Falls! Hopefully I'll sort my life out and get some photos up soon. 

Beyoncé Party in Copacabana

'Nuff said.

Sambadrome Parade

Wow.

On Sunday night Milena and I went to the Sambadrome (Sambadromo in Portuguese) to see the highlight of Carnival. 

And wow. 

It's where all the major samba schools compete and do hour-long (ish) parades in an effort to be crowned champion. 

It started at 9pm, but Milena and I had been told that the best ones parade after midnight, so we slept for a bit (which was easy as we'd had a massive feijoada lunch at our friend Nicky's house earlier that day) and then went for midnight. We took motorbike taxis, which I hadn't done before. It was great fun to cling onto the back of a motorbike for dear life while the driver goes one-handed to take out his helmet, readjust it, and put it back on. At one point his phone rang, and I was thinking 'You bloody dare'. He didn't, thank god. But it was actually quite exhilarating. 

And then the show. Dear god, it was fantastic. I have never seen anything as colourful, dramatic and fabulous as that parade. Anyone who says that you can go to Carnival and just go to the blocos (street parties) and experience it all, is wrong. The blocos were fun, and I enjoyed seeing that side of it, but the Sambadrome was on another level. Even if you get cheap tickets for a less-good view, do it! 

We stayed til the end, which I was glad about, because the last two were the best. And we saw the sunrise over the last parade as well, and it finished at 5.30am. 

Getting a taxi home was a laugh a minute, but we managed it in the end. And we arrived in time to have breakfast at the hostel! Nothing like a toastie after five hours of parade watching. 

I will upload photos when I have the chance, but at the moment I'm draped over a beanbag chair in a hostel on Ilha Grande, an island just outside Rio. Life is hard. 

Tomorrow we're going to explore the island and then on Friday continue our travels along the coast towards Argentina. Will post again when I can!

And here are some photos to prove just how incredible it was...